Hermès, 1999

“Vareuse” shirt in cotton poplin
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Hermès, 1999

“Vareuse” shirt in cotton poplin
  • Item type Shirt
    Size FR34 / XS
    Accession HERC00003
    Design house Hermès
    Designer Martin Margiela, (Belgian, 1957–)
    Collection Spring/Summer 1999
    Material Cotton poplin
    Place of origin France

  • One of Martin Margiela’s recurring signatures at Hermès, the vareuse is defined by its deep V-neckline. Inspired by the traditional French maritime smock of the same name, the motif appeared throughout his collections in various forms.

    For Spring/Summer 1999, Margiela translated the concept into lightweight shirting, which included this piece in crisp cotton poplin.

    In place of a conventional button placket, the pointed collar opens into a deep V at the center front. This understated, functional subversion of the classic button-up allows the piece to be slipped on easily and layered with little effort.

    Cut to a relaxed fit, the shirt is finished with a straight hem and mother-of-pearl buttons at the cuffs.


  • Design
    Medium
    Material Cotton poplin
    Composition 100% Cotton
    Handle Light, dry, crisp
    Weight Midweight
    Transparency No
    Stretch No
    Sheen No
    Inscriptions

    Label marked "HERMÈS • PARIS"
    Label with origin
    Label with size indication
    Label with material composition and care instructions

  • Marked size FR34
    Shoulder width 40 cm
    Chest width 52 cm
    Sleeve length 57 cm
    Waist width 52 cm
    Hip width 52 cm
    Total length 75 cm

    Product measurements are taken individually by hand from the actual piece. For clothing, these are carefully measured as the piece is laid flat. It may be helpful to compare these measurements to a similar piece you already have.


  • Excellent

    This piece remains in well-kept condition, with gentle creasing throughout, and a tiny chip on one cuff button.

    The evaluated condition describes only the piece itself, and not any inclusions that may come with it, such as dust bags and boxes. Learn more about grading here.


Hermès, 1999

“Vareuse” shirt in cotton poplin

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FR34, Excellent View details
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    Full front

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    A model walks the Hermès Fall/Winter 1999 womenswear show in Paris. Image via The Condé Nast Archive

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    Deep front slit

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    Regular shirt collar

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    Topstitching for facing

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    Cuff

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    Full back

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    Yoke

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    Buttoned cuffs

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    Buttoned cuffs

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    Cotton satin fabric

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    Brand label, origin label

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    Size indication, material composition and care instructions

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    "Fashion Notes" with Jacquetta Wheeler by Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia, October 1999

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