For Spring/Summer 2018, Phoebe Philo looked back to the late-’70s and early-’80s Céline woman on Avenue Foch—big hair, pleated skirts, and a grown-up kind of glamour, who evoked an ease, freedom, and pride in getting dressed. These ideas came through in the collection’s skirts: pleated various ways, cut long with asymmetric hems, as seen in this checked one from Look 9.

This skirt is cut from wool–silk suiting with a classic menswear check, pressed into dense sunray pleats. The pleating is tighter at the waistband, where the fabric is gathered and cut with raw edges. The direction of the check is misaligned with the pleats, cascading into a handkerchief hemline that creates a dynamic look.

On the body, the skirt moves exactly as it appears: quite weighty from a substantial amount of fabric, as if a full roll of pleated cloth has been sliced and stitched straight onto the waistband. What it lacks in lightness though, it makes up for in movement: the dense pleating widens and opens outward with each step, creating a dramatic flare in movement.

Pleated skirt
High waist
Dense sunray pleats
Check motif
Handkerchief hem
Raw edges on waist and hem
Buttons and invisible zip on waist

Brand label
Label with size indication, fabric care and composition, and origin
Original retail hang tags, additional button

This piece exhibits no noticeable signs of use.