“The idea was kind of vintage — borrowed, given…. I wanted lots of touches of things that felt like things you’d collect yourself. Individual.” said Phoebe Philo about her creative approach for the Céline’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection. "In a way, I was open to everything—no preconceived ideas, very little of me saying no." The show marked a shift from her typically rigorous editing process toward a more open one that welcomed uncertainty and ambiguity.

Cut in stretch wool, the coat features all the expected elements: a single-breasted front with notched lapels, a martingale belt at the back, and side pockets. Yet as a result of Philo’s approach, key details interrupt the familiarity, turning the coat into something quietly unconventional.

The sleeves are sliced at the elbow, revealing flashes of a bright red reverse side and a black silk georgette lining that faintly shows the arms. The sleeve heads are detached at the front of the shoulder, exposing hints of a floral satin lining. These interventions turn a straightforward sleeve into one designed for movement and visual interest.

Instead of standard buttons, gold brass cowbell pendants close the front, functioning somewhere between fastening and ornament, and echoing the collection’s idea of “borrowed,” collected objects.

Inside, the same floral satin lines the front and the yoke of the coat—a bourgeois print that adds a vintage, sentimental note to the piece, and a feminine counterpoint to the monochrome exterior.

Notched-lapel collar
Cowbell buttons in gold brass for closure
Sleeves split at elbow with visible lining
Sleeve head detached at front with visible lining
Martingale belt on back waist
Vents on side and back hem
Inseam side pockets
Half-lined interior

Label marked "CÉLINE"
Label with size indication, fabric care and composition, and origin

The garment remains in well-maintained condition.